Strange and Alluring

Extraordinary opera designs and costumes from a radical production

Close up of a man's costume on a white mannequin. It features a brown coat, with green lapel and buttons, three medals and tiger stripes. Each shoulder features a 3D prop tigers head.

When the curtain came down on The Australian Opera's opening night performance of Nabucco on 12 August 1995, the creative team behind the production came out to take their bow.

As director Barrie Kosky, designer Peter Corrigan and lighting designer Nigel Levings took the stage, loud boos could be heard coming from sections of the audience. The boos were prompted by the production's radical direction and design. And for Kosky, at least, they were proof that he had achieved what he set out to do: to shake Australian audiences out of their complacency.

In the nearly thirty years since that first performance, the Australian Performing Arts Collection has acquired costumes from this production, as well as Peter Corrigan’s performing arts design archive.

Costume worn by Jonathan Summers as the title character in the Melbourne season of Nabucco, 1996

Curator Ian Jackson looks back at the controversy around Nabucco, and what it tells us about how art, ideas and audiences can make sparks fly on and off stage.

 

Theatrical costume on white mannequin. Features a brown coat with green lapel and buttons, and three medals. Faux-fur tiger material features from mid to end length. Each shoulder features a 3D prop tigers head.

Costume worn by Jonathan Summers as the title character in the Melbourne season of Nabucco, 1996

Costume worn by Jonathan Summers as the title character in the Melbourne season of Nabucco, 1996

Photograph of theatrical set. A red stone building landscape features in the background. On stage a man in white hold a sign reading 'Behold,'. Actors in white, and single white shoes lay on the entirety of the stage.

Act I of Nabucco, 1995

Photograph of theatrical set. A red stone building landscape features in the background. On stage a man in white hold a sign reading 'Behold,'. Actors in white, and single white shoes lay on the entirety of the stage.

Act I of Nabucco, 1995

“Embrace the kaleidoscope of Nabucco and let yourself be whirled through the deserts of time, place and memory”
Barrie Kosky, 1996

The Design Vision

Numerous corrugated cardboard folders with labels. Two hand drawn costume designs feature in the foreground.

Peter Corrigan's design files for Nabucco

Peter Corrigan's design files for Nabucco

Barrie Kosky, then a 28-year old wunderkind of theatre, and Peter Corrigan, an established architect with a long interest in design for the stage, made for an unusual but effective partnership. As Kosky told the Good Weekend magazine just before opening night, “We have incredible rapport, yet we’re so different – the loud, funky, hysterical Jew and the quiet, rather ambiguous, but fiery Irishman”.

Black and white portrait of male wearing thick rimmed black spectacles.

Barrie Kosky

Barrie Kosky

Both shared a view that for performing arts design, ideas matter more than beauty or period accuracy: Corrigan noted approvingly that “Barrie doesn’t want décor… but design that carries ideas, carries the debate forward”.

Colour potrait of man, sitting cross legged. He is surrounded by books and paper material.

Peter Corrigan

Peter Corrigan

Kosky and Corrigan had been commissioned by The Australian Opera’s Artistic Director, Moffat Oxenbould, to replace their much-loved but ageing 1971 production of Giuseppe Verdi’s opera.

Early set design sketch by Peter Corrigan, 1994

Nabucco was Verdi’s first big success: he had also been 28 when Nabucco premiered at Milan’s La Scala opera house in 1842. The opera is based on the Biblical story of the persecution of the Jews under Nebuchadnezzar – but for Verdi, fidelity to the source mattered less than stirring music – most famously, the chorus ‘Va, Pensiero’ – and dramatic emotional expression.

Early set design sketch by Peter Corrigan, 1994

Kosky found the opera “a wonderfully weird archaeological puzzle… part-documentary, part-melodrama and part-historical variety show”. His approach was to start with the world of Italian opera where Nabucco had originated and, in his words, “explode [it] all over the stage”, imagining “a big 19th-century opera production on LSD” that moves from opera into vaudeville: “La Scala meets the Folies Bergeres goes to a Las Vegas casino”.

Black and white photograph of a man and woman on stage in costume. The woman is wearing a decorated coat, feathered headdress and cane. The man is sitting in a miniature theatre, his face is painted white.

Elizabeth Connell and Jonathan Summers, inside a miniature theatre-within-a-theatre, 1996. Photograph by Jeff Busby.

Elizabeth Connell and Jonathan Summers, inside a miniature theatre-within-a-theatre, 1996. Photograph by Jeff Busby.

Corrigan’s design responded to Kosky’s vision of a “deliberately brash and somewhat hallucinogenic depiction of Babylon”. His costumes, sets and props were inspired by 19th-century opera productions, but also by images as diverse as wild animals, propaganda, and military uniform.

Various currogated cardboard folders with labels.

Peter Corrigan's design files for Nabucco

Peter Corrigan's design files for Nabucco

Peter Corrigan’s archive includes working sketches, notes and finished designs for Nabucco. Through them, we can see the evolution of his design ideas.

Hand drawn set design sketch featuring coloured landscape and white panels.

Early set design sketch by Peter Corrigan, 1994

Early set design sketch by Peter Corrigan, 1994

Hand drawn set design sketch featuring three birds rising above a walled enclosure. Two figures stand in the foreground.

Early set design sketch by Peter Corrigan, 1994

Early set design sketch by Peter Corrigan, 1994

Black and white costume sketch for a man's suit featuring draped tiger skin, with annotations surrounding.
Black and white costume sketch for a man's suit featuring draped tiger skin and tiger's head on each shoulder, with annotations and pink highlighting surrounding.
Black and white costume sketch for a man's three piece suit, featuring medals, and a cane, with pink and black annotations surrounding.
Black and white costume sketch for a man's three piece suit, featuring a coat with medals, tiger skin and a tiger's head on each shoulder, as well as a cane. Annotations surrounding.
Colouredcostume sketch for a man's three piece suit, featuring a coat with medals, tiger skin and a tiger's head on each shoulder, a headdress as well as a cane. Annotations surrounding.
Black and white costume sketch for a man's suit featuring draped tiger skin, with annotations surrounding.
Black and white costume sketch for a man's suit featuring draped tiger skin and tiger's head on each shoulder, with annotations and pink highlighting surrounding.
Black and white costume sketch for a man's three piece suit, featuring medals, and a cane, with pink and black annotations surrounding.
Black and white costume sketch for a man's three piece suit, featuring a coat with medals, tiger skin and a tiger's head on each shoulder, as well as a cane. Annotations surrounding.
Colouredcostume sketch for a man's three piece suit, featuring a coat with medals, tiger skin and a tiger's head on each shoulder, a headdress as well as a cane. Annotations surrounding.

For the character of Nabucco, played by Malcolm Donnelly in Sydney and Jonathan Summers in Melbourne, Corrigan first sketched a suit like one worn by Paul Keating - but with a tiger skin over the shoulder.

The pencil sketch was photocopied and reworked.

The King's costume then evolved...

…into a full tiger-skin cloak

Colour and swatches made up the final design.

The result was a striking costume evoking Nabucco's regal power at the start of the opera.

Close up of a man's costume on a white mannequin. It features a brown coat, with green lapel and buttons, three medals and tiger stripes. Each shoulder features a 3D prop tigers head.
Black and white photograph of performer on stage wering a costume featuring a 3D tigers head on the shoulder and a headdress. He has his face painted white and is pointing a cane outwards.

Jonathan Summers in Nabucco. Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996.

Close up of a man's costume on a white mannequin. It features a brown coat, with green lapel and buttons, three medals and tiger stripes. Each shoulder features a 3D prop tigers head.
Black and white photograph of performer on stage wering a costume featuring a 3D tigers head on the shoulder and a headdress. He has his face painted white and is pointing a cane outwards.

Jonathan Summers in Nabucco. Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996.

Corrigan also designed a series of costumes for the character Abigaille, played by Elizabeth Connell. These reflect her changing status – and state of mind – as she usurps power from Nabucco. In Act III, as Queen of Babylon, she wore a dress covered entirely in military medals, paired with a spectacular plumed tiara.

Photograph of a woman's costume on a white mannequin. It features a navy blue, floor lenght coat with medals all over. A headdress of gold and blue is topped with black feathers.

Costume worn by Elizabeth Connell as Abigaille, Act III, Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6

Costume worn by Elizabeth Connell as Abigaille, Act III, Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6

Black and white costume sketch of a woman's floor length coat, covered in medals. Annotations surround.
Coloured costume sketch of a woman's floor length coat, covered in medals. Annotations surround.
Black and white costume sketch of a woman's floor length coat, covered in medals. Annotations surround.
Coloured costume sketch of a woman's floor length coat, covered in medals. Annotations surround.

Realising the Vision

Close up of navy blue brocade material covered in coloured medals, featuring silver lace trimming.
Photograph of a theatre stage with cast members in two lines on each side, as well as handing from a green backdrop, each with a fist in the air. In the foreground a single actor repeats the stance in front of signs indivudally reading: 'wild beasts', 'desert', 'shall', 'Babylon,' 'owls', and 'therein.'

John Brunato as the High Priest Zaccaria

John Brunato as the High Priest Zaccaria

Photograph of theatre stage with cast on raised platform beneath a green snake like figure.

The chorus sing ‘Va Pensiero

The chorus sing ‘Va Pensiero

Realising Kosky and Corrigan’s vision for Nabucco was a challenge for The Australian Opera’s set builders, props and costume makers. The production was large in scale, with a budget of $350,000, and Kosky and Corrigan’s vision called for a giant serpent, enormous fibreglass heads, a stage that slid open, and of course the costumes for the eight principal singers and 50 chorus members.

Eliza Goldman, the head of Wardrobe, had to find ways of making the tigers' heads on the costumes light enough to wear while singing and moving on stage.

Painted scenery design featuring a desert like landscape with buildings, palm trees and mountains.

Scenery design by Peter Corrigan, 1995

Scenery design by Peter Corrigan, 1995

Corrigan also designed painted backdrops based on vintage prints. These evoked the scenery used in nineteenth century opera, but when combined with the contrasting modern stage elements, they deliberately undermined the Orientalist fantasy of an ‘exotic’ Middle East that such scenery implied.

Painted scenery design featuring a landscape of ruined stone buildings with a large red sun in the background.

Scenery design by Peter Corrigan, 1995

Photogrpah of theatre stage with a backdrop painted with ruined stone buildings. Cast members form a line on each side with others in motion in the centre.
Painted scenery design featuring a landscape of ruined stone buildings with a large red sun in the background.

Scenery design by Peter Corrigan, 1995

Photogrpah of theatre stage with a backdrop painted with ruined stone buildings. Cast members form a line on each side with others in motion in the centre.

Opening Nights

Black and white photograph of a group of actors on stage in elaborate costumes.

Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996

Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996

“Far better to boo, or to walk out, or bravo than to sit there and politely clap, and say, ‘Where are you going for supper?’”
Barrie Kosky, 1995

When a section of the Sydney first-night audience booed the production, Barrie Kosky “looked like a boxer being congratulated at the end of an arduous match… He thought it was a fabulous reception; he loved the fact that the audience wasn’t bored – that they were either really excited by what they've seen”, said The Australian Opera’s communications director. Corrigan, too, was reported to have “smiled amiably”. Kosky later hinted at more complex feelings when he recalled “the glitter of tiaras and boozy faces of social first-nighters, faces made even more beetroot by my daring to depart from tradition”.

Headdress design by Peter Corrigan, 1994-5

Critical reception in Sydney was mixed. The Sun-Herald’s John Carmody wrote that “the complex originality and cheeky vitality of Barrie Kosky’s new production… provoked, amused and mystified me; it has had me pondering ever since.” Deborah Jones, in The Australian, was less amused, calling it an “incoherent, tarted up production… narrative counts for little here. The look is all, as the Babylonians sport animals’ heads on their costumes”. She called it “opera for the MTV set – flashy, cold, heartless, over-designed and deaf to the voice of the composer”.

Headdress design by Peter Corrigan, 1994-5

Meanwhile, letters of complaint poured in: one woman wrote that she had been “plunged into an abyss of horror”. Another wrote to newspapers to decry The Australian Opera’s “extravagant homo-erotic fantasies”. A further audience member wrote to complain that:

The original score set the opera in biblical times, but The Australian Opera took the liberty of allowing the 28-year-old Mr Kosky a free hand to set the opera in a surrealistic 21st century... I have taken the matter up with the general manager of The Australian Opera but he is of the opinion that to continue to produce operas in the traditional form is to keep the opera in a museum. If this is what The Australian Opera desires, it is free to do so, but it should inform prospective patrons that an opera is out of the ordinary. Accordingly, I am lodging a complaint with the Trade Practices Commission.

True to his word, the letter writer went to the Consumer Claims Tribunal, which ordered The Australian Opera to refund his $140 ticket costs.

Black and white costume sketch for a feathered and netted headdress. Annotations surround.

Headdress design by Peter Corrigan, 1994-5

Headdress design by Peter Corrigan, 1994-5

Coloured costume sketch for a feathered and netted headdress. Annotations surround.

Headdress design by Peter Corrigan, 1994-5

Headdress design by Peter Corrigan, 1994-5

Close up shot of costume and headdress on white mannequin. It features a navy blue, floor lenght coat with medals all over. A headdress of gold and blue is topped with black feathers and features a black netting on the back..

Headdress worn by Elizabeth Connell as Abigaille, Act III, Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6

Headdress worn by Elizabeth Connell as Abigaille, Act III, Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6

“Many opera-goers expect to see a beautiful spectacle, not people waving placards and sneakers strewn all over the stage”
Audience member, 1995
Black and white photograph of theatre stage. The background features a landscape of ruined stone buildings. On stage six actors in white stand and point towards the audience, one holds a sign written with 'Behold,'. They are surrounded by a sea of white shoes on the floor.

Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996

Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996

When Nabucco came to Melbourne in April 1996, the production’s controversial reputation preceded it.

But the reaction on opening night there was very different. Critic Bob Crimeen of the Sunday Sun-Herald recorded “a different kind of frenzy”:

“the opening night audience roaring unequivocal approval, and people stampeding to buy tickets to see one of the most excitingly staged, gloriously sung operas the national company has staged”

The Australian’s critic agreed that “There was a real sense that everyone, for whatever reason, was with Kosky, however crazy the staging was. At the end there were no boos, just tremendous cheers.”

Even though Crimeen felt Kosky had “inflicted some terrible atrocities” on Verdi’s work, he felt that “almost every moment offers new visual or dramatic wonders:

"It is impossible in one sitting to consume the bewildering banquet of theatrical… goodies served up by Kosky and designer Peter Corrigan, aided in no small measure by Nigel Levings’ superlative lighting design”

Perhaps Melburnians revelled in the chance to prove themselves more open-minded than Sydneysiders, or perhaps, The Age speculated, “this city is rather proud of our Barrie, who has done very well in a spectacularly short time”.

Front, close-up of headdress on white mannequin. It is a turban-like hat in purple mettalic fabrics with jewels at the fron and a plume of black feathers stems from the top.
Side, close-up of headdress on white mannequin. It is a turban-like hat in purple mettalic fabrics with jewels at the fron and a plume of black feathers stems from the top.
Side, close-up of headdress on white mannequin. It is a turban-like hat in purple mettalic fabrics with jewels at the fron and a plume of black feathers stems from the top.
Back, close-up of headdress on white mannequin. It is a turban-like hat in purple mettalic fabrics a plume of black feathers stems from the top.

Headdress worn by Elizabeth Connell as Abigaille, Act I, Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6

Headdress worn by Elizabeth Connell as Abigaille, Act I, Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6

The Legacy

Black and white photograph of theatre stage. A group of actors in white fill the background and a single actor in an eloborate costume and headdress gestures with arms outstretched.

Jonathan Summers as Nabucco. Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996

Jonathan Summers as Nabucco. Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996

Since 1995, Barry Kosky has become internationally renowned as a director of theatre and opera, working in Austria, Germany, the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. He continues to radically reinterpret well-known works, finding new perspectives on much-performed classics.

Hat worn by John Brunato as the High Priest Zaccaria, Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6

Through his career, Kosky has developed the approach to opera that he laid out in a passionately-argued defence of Nabucco in the Sydney Morning Herald in 1995. In it, he argued that “Yes, the production is part-fantasy, part-burlesque, part-history lesson and part-spectacle, but so is the opera... Nabucco is about destruction, colonial power, metropolitan vulgarity, nostalgia, madness and history”. For Kosky, opera itself was "extravagant, confusing, entertaining, alarming and ecstatic". So for opera to continue to develop as a living artform, it needed to embrace this nature.

Black and white photograph of a theatre stage. A man in a suit carrys a cane and has a prop snake wrapped around his body and arms. His hat featues a prop insect. Other actors appear blurred in the background.

John Brunato as the High Priest Zaccaria. Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996.

John Brunato as the High Priest Zaccaria. Photograph by Jeff Busby, 1996.

The designs and costumes in the Australian Performing Arts Collection show the full scope of Kosky and Corrigan's vision and the breadth of imagination they brought to the work. They remind us that the evolution of a living artform will not always be welcomed at first, but the passage of time can bring new appreciation, even if not always comprehension.

As Kosky told the Sunday Age as Nabucco opened in Melbourne, opera is “inexplicable in its power and mystery, so I think it should be more inexplicable and strange and more alluring. That’s why people go.”

Front view of a traditional mans hat in black, featuring a vivid prop insect on top.
Side view of a traditional mans hat in black, featuring a vivid prop insect on top.
Back view of a traditional mans hat in black, featuring a vivid prop insect on top.

Hat worn by John Brunato as the High Priest Zaccaria, Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6

Hat worn by John Brunato as the High Priest Zaccaria, Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6

Credits

Production costume and set designs by Peter Corrigan. Gift of Peter Corrigan, 2014, and Bequest of Peter Corrigan, 2019

Black and white production photographs from Melbourne season courtesy of Jeff Busby

Colour production photographs from the Peter Corrigan collection, photographer unknown. Gift of Peter Corrigan, 2014, and Bequest of Peter Corrigan, 2019

Costume photography by Narelle Wilson

With thanks to Larry Edwards for his investigation of Jonathan Summers' costume for the title role of Nabucco

Hat worn by John Brunato as Zaccaria the High Priest in Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6
Designed by Peter Corrigan and realised by The Australian Opera workshop
Gift of Opera Australia, 2013

Barry Kosky, c. 1995. Photographer unknown. Australian Performing Arts Collection, Arts Centre Melbourne.

Barry Kosky, c. 1995. Photographer unknown. Australian Performing Arts Collection, Arts Centre Melbourne.

Peter Corrigan, c. 2000. Photographer unknown. Photograph courtesy of Matthew Corrigan.

Peter Corrigan, c. 2000. Photographer unknown. Photograph courtesy of Matthew Corrigan.

Costume worn by Jonathan Summers as the title character in Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1996
Designed by Peter Corrigan and realised by The Australian Opera workshop
Gift of Opera Australia, 2013

Costume worn by Elizabeth Connell as Abigaille in Nabucco, The Australian Opera, 1995-6
Designed by Peter Corrigan and realised by The Australian Opera workshop
Gift of Opera Australia, 2013